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View article: SPECTRAL MODELLING OF COASTAL WAVES USING QUADWAVE1D
SPECTRAL MODELLING OF COASTAL WAVES USING QUADWAVE1D Open
QuadWave1D is a fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear model for coastal wave prediction in one dimension. This model is based on the quadratic modelling approach (often referred to as frequency-domain models, weakly nonlinear mild-slope mo…
View article: Real-time metocean sensor arrays
Real-time metocean sensor arrays Open
A real-time metocean sensor array system may include a one or more floating instruments each including geolocation capabilities and connected to a satellite communication network. In some examples, the floating instruments may further incl…
View article: Proxy Observations of Surface Wind from a Globally Distributed Network of Wave Buoys
Proxy Observations of Surface Wind from a Globally Distributed Network of Wave Buoys Open
In the equilibrium range of the wave spectrum’s high-frequency tail, energy levels are proportional to the wind friction velocity. As a consequence of this intrinsic coupling, spectral tail energy levels can be used as proxy observations o…
View article: A mild-slope formulation based on Weyl rule of association with application to coastal wave modelling
A mild-slope formulation based on Weyl rule of association with application to coastal wave modelling Open
Weyl rule of association, proposed by Hermann Weyl for quantum mechanics applications (Weyl, 1931), can be used to associate between the dispersion relation of water waves and a non-local pseudo-differential operator. The central result of…
View article: Ensemble-Based Data Assimilation of Significant Wave Height from Sofar Spotters and Satellite Altimeters with a Global Operational Wave Model
Ensemble-Based Data Assimilation of Significant Wave Height from Sofar Spotters and Satellite Altimeters with a Global Operational Wave Model Open
An ensemble-based method for wave data assimilation is implemented using significant wave height observations from the globally distributed network of Sofar Spotter buoys and satellite altimeters. The Local Ensemble Transform Kalman Filter…
View article: Ensemble-Based Data Assimilation of Significant Wave Height from Sofar Spotters and Satellite Altimeters with a Global Operational Wave Model
Ensemble-Based Data Assimilation of Significant Wave Height from Sofar Spotters and Satellite Altimeters with a Global Operational Wave Model Open
An ensemble-based method for wave data assimilation is implemented using significant wave height observations from the globally distributed network of Sofar Spotter buoys and satellite altimeters. The Local Ensemble Transform Kalman Filter…
View article: Operational Assimilation of Spectral Wave Data From the Sofar Spotter Network
Operational Assimilation of Spectral Wave Data From the Sofar Spotter Network Open
Historically, the sparseness of in situ open‐ocean wave and weather observations has severely limited the forecast skill of weather over the ocean with major social and economic consequences for coastal communities and maritime industries.…
View article: A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach
A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach Open
A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate…
View article: Operational assimilation of spectral wave data from the Sofar Spotter network
Operational assimilation of spectral wave data from the Sofar Spotter network Open
Earth and Space Science Open Archive This preprint has been submitted to and is under consideration at Geophysical Research Letters. ESSOAr is a venue for early communication or feedback before peer review. Data may be preliminary.Learn mo…
View article: Performance Statistics of a Real-Time Pacific Ocean Weather Sensor Network
Performance Statistics of a Real-Time Pacific Ocean Weather Sensor Network Open
A distributed sensor network of over 100 free-drifting, real-time marine weather sensors was deployed in the Pacific Ocean beginning in early 2019. The Spotter buoys used in the network represent a next-generation ocean weather sensor desi…
View article: Wind inference by a real-time global ocean weather sensor network
Wind inference by a real-time global ocean weather sensor network Open
<p>A distributed sensor network of several hundred free-drifting, real-time marine weather sensors was deployed beginning in early 2019 initially focused in the Pacific Ocean and expanding globally. The Spotter buoys used in the netw…
View article: Assimilation of significant wave height from distributed ocean wave sensors
Assimilation of significant wave height from distributed ocean wave sensors Open
In-situ ocean wave observations are critical to improve model skill and validate remote sensing wave measurements. Historically, such observations are extremely sparse due to the large costs and complexity of traditional wave buoys and sen…
View article: The Inner-Shelf Dynamics Experiment
The Inner-Shelf Dynamics Experiment Open
The inner shelf, the transition zone between the surfzone and the midshelf, is a dynamically complex region with the evolution of circulation and stratification driven by multiple physical processes. Cross-shelf exchange through the inner …
View article: Efficient two-layer non-hydrostatic wave model with accurate dispersive behaviour
Efficient two-layer non-hydrostatic wave model with accurate dispersive behaviour Open
A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional com…
View article: Modelling statistical wave interferences over shear currents
Modelling statistical wave interferences over shear currents Open
Wave forecasting in ocean and coastal waters commonly relies on spectral models based on the spectral action balance equation. These models assume that different wave components are statistically independent and as a consequence cannot res…
View article: Assimilation of distributed ocean wave sensors
Assimilation of distributed ocean wave sensors Open
In-situ ocean wave observations are critical to improve model skill and validate remote sensing wave measurements. Historically, such observations are extremely sparse due to the large costs and complexity of traditional wave buoys and sen…
View article: Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra
Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra Open
Compact wave buoys are increasingly used to provide monitoring of coastal and oceanic conditions by measuring surface waves in real time. Due to their relatively compact size, they are generally not suited to measure wind directly. However…
View article: Data of 'Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra'
Data of 'Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra' Open
This set contains data of a Spotter wave buoy deployment and of the RMSE of wind speed and direction estimates as described in 'Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra', submitted for review to Journal of Geophysical Researc…
View article: Data of 'Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra'
Data of 'Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra' Open
This set contains data of a Spotter wave buoy deployment and of the RMSE of wind speed and direction estimates as described in 'Estimating Wind Speed and Direction Using Wave Spectra', submitted for review to Journal of Geophysical Researc…
View article: Swell Propagation through Submesoscale Turbulence
Swell Propagation through Submesoscale Turbulence Open
The propagation of ocean swells from generating regions to remote coastlines is affected by submesoscale turbulence in the surface flow field. The presence of submesoscale velocity variations results in random scattering of wave rays. Whil…
View article: Untangling a Web of Interactions Where Surf Meets Coastal Ocean
Untangling a Web of Interactions Where Surf Meets Coastal Ocean Open
In 2017, an ocean research team launched an unprecedented effort to understand what drives ocean currents in the overlap regions between surf zones and continental shelves.
View article: Innovations in Metocean Sensors
Innovations in Metocean Sensors Open
Real-time observations are critical to understand, predict and estimate the impact of extreme weather events such as extratropical hurricanes and storms. Remote sensing, moored wave buoys and advances in predictive models have greatly adva…
View article: MODELLING WAVE INTERFERENCE PATTERNS USING THE SWAN MODEL
MODELLING WAVE INTERFERENCE PATTERNS USING THE SWAN MODEL Open
This study presents an efficient approach of resolving wave interference patterns in spectral wave models (e.g., SWAN). Such interference patterns, which frequently occur in coastal waters (e.g., near headlands, harbor entrances and coasta…
View article: REAL-TIME ASSIMILATION USING A DENSE ARRAY OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE OBSERVATIONS
REAL-TIME ASSIMILATION USING A DENSE ARRAY OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE OBSERVATIONS Open
Wave conditions along our coastlines are monitored using networks of wave buoys. Augmented with regional wave now- and hind-casts from operational wave models, these data networks provide detailed regional information of wave conditions pr…
View article: The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling
The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling Open
Numerical models predicting surfzone waves and shoreline runup in field situations are often initialized with shoreward propagating (sea-swell, and infragravity) waves at an offshore boundary in 10–30 m water depth. We develop an offshore …