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View article: CONTINUOUS FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF DUNE SLUMPING DURING STORM SURGES
CONTINUOUS FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF DUNE SLUMPING DURING STORM SURGES Open
On sandy coastlines, dunes frequently serve as the main line of defense against coastal storms. During a storm, wind and wave setup result in an increased water or surge level, which submerges the beach, allowing waves to collide with and …
View article: SALT MARSH AND EXTREME CONDITIONS: A LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENT
SALT MARSH AND EXTREME CONDITIONS: A LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENT Open
In densely populated coastal regions across the globe, hard sea defenses have been widely used to guarantee the safety of the population and exposed assets. However, the efficacy of these hard structures has come under scrutiny in recent t…
View article: DUNEFRONT PROJECT: DEMONSTRATION OF DUNE-DIKE HYBRID NATURE-BASED SOLUTIONS
DUNEFRONT PROJECT: DEMONSTRATION OF DUNE-DIKE HYBRID NATURE-BASED SOLUTIONS Open
The European coasts are among the most densely populated of the world, with natural sand dune barriers urbanised and replaced by traditional hard coastal protection structures. Without the needed measures to adapt, the number of people exp…
View article: MODELING INFRAGRAVITY WAVES WITH SWAN
MODELING INFRAGRAVITY WAVES WITH SWAN Open
Infragravity (IG) waves play an important role in the coastal zone affecting wave runup, overtopping, dune erosion and shipping. They originate from the sea-swell wave groups that force them either as bound IG waves or as free IG waves due…
View article: WAVE SPECTRUM TRANSFORMATION OVER A SALT MARSH UNDER EXTREME STORM CONDITIONS
WAVE SPECTRUM TRANSFORMATION OVER A SALT MARSH UNDER EXTREME STORM CONDITIONS Open
In the face of accelerating sea-level rise, coastal structures are dealing with the growing challenge of increased wave loading, requiring innovative solutions for coastal protection. The effectiveness of common hard static structures such…
View article: Coastal Dune Erosion and Slumping Processes in the Swash‐Dune Collision Regime Based on Field Measurements
Coastal Dune Erosion and Slumping Processes in the Swash‐Dune Collision Regime Based on Field Measurements Open
This paper studies hydrodynamic and morphodynamic field measurements of two storms with dune erosion in the swash‐dune collision regime. It analyses (a) the behavior and change of the total dune profile over the course of both storms (b) t…
View article: Wave Shape Evolution from a Phase-Averaged Spectral Model
Wave Shape Evolution from a Phase-Averaged Spectral Model Open
In spectral wave models, the nonlinear triad source term accounts for the transfer of energy to the bound higher harmonics. This paper presents an extension to commonly used spectral models that resolves the evolution of the bound wave ene…
View article: Continuous Wave Measurements Collected in Intermediate Depth throughout the North Sea Storm Season during the RealDune/REFLEX Experiments
Continuous Wave Measurements Collected in Intermediate Depth throughout the North Sea Storm Season during the RealDune/REFLEX Experiments Open
High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions th…
View article: Coupled Short-Ig Wave Dunamics Over A Shallow Barrier Reef
Coupled Short-Ig Wave Dunamics Over A Shallow Barrier Reef Open
Reef barriers play a major role many coral islands, by sheltering the lagoon from the ocean wave energy and then creating a unique habitat for many species. This filtering action becomes increasingly crucial for ecosystems health and shore…
View article: Characterization Of Very Low Frequency Wave Energy Distribution In A Coral Reef-Lagoon System
Characterization Of Very Low Frequency Wave Energy Distribution In A Coral Reef-Lagoon System Open
In a coral reef system, the reef barrier protects the lagoon from incoming ocean waves favoring the development of a relatively calm ecosystem in the middle of a much more energetic domain. Incident sea-swell waves (SS) are filtered and tr…
View article: Wave Reflection Analyses On Laser Scan Data From A Model Salt Marsh
Wave Reflection Analyses On Laser Scan Data From A Model Salt Marsh Open
Physical or numerical models are common tools to investigate the interaction between waves and marine structures. The decomposition of the water level into incident and reflected wave components is often required, as most design variables …
View article: Unstructured swan modelling of free infragravity waves over the Southern North Sea
Unstructured swan modelling of free infragravity waves over the Southern North Sea Open
Infragravity (IG) waves are relatively long waves with typical periods of several tens of seconds to several minutes. The energy at the IG band plays an important role in nearshore areas. For example, IG waves can significantly contribute …
View article: Continuous Wave Measurements Collected in Intermediate Depth throughout the North Sea Storm Season during the RealDune/REFLEX Experiments
Continuous Wave Measurements Collected in Intermediate Depth throughout the North Sea Storm Season during the RealDune/REFLEX Experiments Open
High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions th…
View article: Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model
Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model Open
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straight…
View article: THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT
THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT Open
Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face…
View article: UNRAVELING MULTIMODAL NEARSHORE WIND-WAVE FIELDS ON THE DUTCH SHOREFACE
UNRAVELING MULTIMODAL NEARSHORE WIND-WAVE FIELDS ON THE DUTCH SHOREFACE Open
Changing (wind) climate might influence the magnitude, direction, and frequency of wave systems (Lobeto et al., 2021). However, in coastal engineering applications, generalized wave parameters are commonly used in climate change assessment…
View article: INFRAGRAVITY WAVES AT A TIDAL INLET
INFRAGRAVITY WAVES AT A TIDAL INLET Open
The generation and propagation of infragravity waves at sandy coasts has received significant attention (e.g. Herbers et al., 1994). This is in contrast with tidal inlets where both observations and modeling studies are scarce. Here we pre…
View article: CROSS-SHORE TRANSFORMATION OF BOUND AND FREE INFRAGRAVITY WAVES OFF THE DUTCH COAST
CROSS-SHORE TRANSFORMATION OF BOUND AND FREE INFRAGRAVITY WAVES OFF THE DUTCH COAST Open
Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typicall…
View article: Spectral Wave Dissipation Over a Roughness‐Varying Barrier Reef
Spectral Wave Dissipation Over a Roughness‐Varying Barrier Reef Open
The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness‐varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non‐li…
View article: Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model
Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model Open
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straight…
View article: Efficient and accurate modeling of wave-driven flooding on coral reef-lined coasts: Case Study of Majuro Atoll, Republic of the Marshall Islands
Efficient and accurate modeling of wave-driven flooding on coral reef-lined coasts: Case Study of Majuro Atoll, Republic of the Marshall Islands Open
<p>Many coral reef islands are low-lying, which in combination with population growth, sea level rise and possibly more frequent extreme weather events is likely to result in increased coastal risk (e.g. Storlazzi et al., 2015). On s…
View article: North Sea Infragravity Wave Observations
North Sea Infragravity Wave Observations Open
Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the di…
View article: High-resolution, large-scale laboratory measurements of a sandy beach and dynamic cobble berm revetment
High-resolution, large-scale laboratory measurements of a sandy beach and dynamic cobble berm revetment Open
High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The D…
View article: Formulation of a Surf-Similarity Parameter to Predict Tsunami Characteristics at the Coast
Formulation of a Surf-Similarity Parameter to Predict Tsunami Characteristics at the Coast Open
To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures it is of great importance to determine the shape of the tsunami front reaching the coast. Based on literature reviews, analytical reasoning, video footage, and numerical modelling it is con…
View article: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS ON RESONANT WAVE AMPLIFICATION OVER A FRINGING REEF
NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS ON RESONANT WAVE AMPLIFICATION OVER A FRINGING REEF Open
Waves are important drivers for reef hydrodynamics, and therefore strongly contribute to flooding over reef-lined coasts. While high-frequency waves are largely dissipated when they propagate over the reef flat due to breaking and friction…
View article: DATA-MODEL COMPARISONS OF STORM PROCESSES DURING HURRICANE HARVEY
DATA-MODEL COMPARISONS OF STORM PROCESSES DURING HURRICANE HARVEY Open
During tropical cyclones, processes including dune erosion, overwash, inundation, and storm-surge ebb can rapidly reshape barrier islands, thereby increasing coastal hazards and flood exposure inland. Relatively few measurements are availa…