Jeff E. Hansen
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View article: Free Long Wave Generation: Breakpoint Forcing Versus Bound Wave Release
Free Long Wave Generation: Breakpoint Forcing Versus Bound Wave Release Open
When wind waves break in the nearshore, free long (infragravity) waves are generated through two mechanisms: breakpoint forcing and bound wave release. Previous studies have highlighted that lower frequency groups breaking on steep slopes …
View article: SEDIMENT TRANSPORT DYNAMICS ACROSS SHORE-ATTACHED SAND RIDGES
SEDIMENT TRANSPORT DYNAMICS ACROSS SHORE-ATTACHED SAND RIDGES Open
As sea levels rise many coastal areas are predicted to experience beach erosion. However, this erosion can potentially be partially mitigated by natural onshore transport from offshore sediment reserves. While offshore sediment reserves ha…
View article: THE RELATIVE CONTRIBUTIONS OF WAVE POWER AND SEA LEVEL TO COASTAL EROSION IN REEF-FRONTED SANDY BEACHES
THE RELATIVE CONTRIBUTIONS OF WAVE POWER AND SEA LEVEL TO COASTAL EROSION IN REEF-FRONTED SANDY BEACHES Open
Coastal erosion in sandy beaches can be caused by numerous factors. Examples include wave energy, sea level, riverine runoff, terrain subsidence, and climate oscillations. Fringing reefs impose an additional layer of complexity to the morp…
View article: EXPERIMENTAL BASIN STUDY OF WAVE-DRIVEN HYDRODYNAMICS OVER ARTIFICIAL REEFS
EXPERIMENTAL BASIN STUDY OF WAVE-DRIVEN HYDRODYNAMICS OVER ARTIFICIAL REEFS Open
Submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and artificial reefs) modify shoreline hydrodynamics by altering incident wave fields. Submerged breakwaters are designed to provide coastal protection by decreasing incident wave e…
View article: WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS MODULAR POROUS ARTIFICIAL REEFS
WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS MODULAR POROUS ARTIFICIAL REEFS Open
Artificial reefs are often deployed for purposes of habitat creation, yet can also act as a nature-based solution for coastal protection due to their ability to attenuate wave energy. There is, however, a lack of quantitative understanding…
View article: MODELLING WAVE HYDRODYNAMICS AROUND POROUS ARTIFICIAL REEF WITH COUPLED MESH-BASED AND MESHLESS NUMERICAL METHODS
MODELLING WAVE HYDRODYNAMICS AROUND POROUS ARTIFICIAL REEF WITH COUPLED MESH-BASED AND MESHLESS NUMERICAL METHODS Open
Nature-based coastal protection solutions, such as artificial reefs, often consist of porous modules with complex geometries. While the porous designs are due to the requirements of promoting benthic habitat and attenuating incident waves,…
View article: Uncrewed surface vehicles in the Global Ocean Observing System: a new frontier for observing and monitoring at the air-sea interface
Uncrewed surface vehicles in the Global Ocean Observing System: a new frontier for observing and monitoring at the air-sea interface Open
Observing air-sea interactions on a global scale is essential for improving Earth system forecasts. Yet these exchanges are challenging to quantify for a range of reasons, including extreme conditions, vast and remote under-sampled locatio…
View article: Nonlinear modelling of arrays of submerged wave energy converters
Nonlinear modelling of arrays of submerged wave energy converters Open
Studies of arrays of wave energy converters (WECs) with respect to power absorption and array interactions are often performed using linear models. However, nonlinear effects can be important and may change power estimates and optimal arra…
View article: A framework for national-scale coastal storm hazards early warning
A framework for national-scale coastal storm hazards early warning Open
National weather forecasting agencies routinely issue a range of hazard warnings. But to our knowledge, along sandy coastlines where storm waves and storm surge can result in widespread but location-specific beach erosion and beachfront fl…
View article: Wave Basin Experiments Of Wave-Driven Hydrodynamics Over Submerged Coastal Structures And Artificial Reefs
Wave Basin Experiments Of Wave-Driven Hydrodynamics Over Submerged Coastal Structures And Artificial Reefs Open
Submerged coastal structures, such as submerged breakwaters and artificial reefs, modify incident wave fields and alter a wide range of nearshore hydrodynamic processes. Submerged breakwaters are usually designed for a singular function of…
View article: MULTI-OBJECTIVE OPTIMISATION AND COASTAL IMPACT ASSESSMENTS OF WAVE FARMS
MULTI-OBJECTIVE OPTIMISATION AND COASTAL IMPACT ASSESSMENTS OF WAVE FARMS Open
To add to the global renewable energy mix, ocean waves are a consilient and energy-dense untapped resource. However, to generate power on a commercial scale, wave energy converters (WECs) will need to be deployed in arrays or “wave farms”.…
View article: HOW BEACH STATE INFLUENCES WAVE RUNUP ON A PERCHED BEACH IN SOUTHWESTERN AUSTRALIA
HOW BEACH STATE INFLUENCES WAVE RUNUP ON A PERCHED BEACH IN SOUTHWESTERN AUSTRALIA Open
Approximately 20 to 30 percent of the world’s coastlines are fronted by shallowly buried or outcropping shore platforms overlain by perched beaches (Kirk, 1977; Marshall and Stephenson, 2011; Trenhaile, 2002). Seasonal erosion of perched s…
View article: NONHYDROSTATIC AND MESH-FREE COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS MODEL COMPARISONS OF SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS BY PLUNGING IRREGULAR WAVES
NONHYDROSTATIC AND MESH-FREE COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS MODEL COMPARISONS OF SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS BY PLUNGING IRREGULAR WAVES Open
Wave breaking over steep bathymetry often generates plunging waves where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Simulating these complex surf zone processes poses significant challenges for conventional mesh-base…
View article: DISPLACEMENT BASED COMPARISON OF ACCELEROMETER AND LOW-COST GNSS WAVE BUOYS
DISPLACEMENT BASED COMPARISON OF ACCELEROMETER AND LOW-COST GNSS WAVE BUOYS Open
Wave observations are critical in both coastal and deep water and feed into applications including improving ocean forecasting, industry activities, and marine safety. Wave buoys are typically the most robust method to collect in situ wave…
View article: THE INFLUENCE OF SUBMERGED COASTAL STRUCTURES ON NEARSHORE HYDRODYNAMICS
THE INFLUENCE OF SUBMERGED COASTAL STRUCTURES ON NEARSHORE HYDRODYNAMICS Open
Submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and natural and artificial reefs) are common in nearshore waters globally. By locally reducing water depths from the surrounding bathymetry, they modify the incident wave field, mea…
View article: Dynamics of the Wave‐Driven Circulation in the Lee of Nearshore Reefs
Dynamics of the Wave‐Driven Circulation in the Lee of Nearshore Reefs Open
Nearshore rocky reefs with scales of order 10–100 m are common along the world's coastline and often shape wave‐driven hydrodynamics and shoreline morphology in their lee. The interaction of waves with these reefs generally results in eith…
View article: Free Long-Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Zone through Partial Reflections
Free Long-Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Zone through Partial Reflections Open
Long waves play an important role in coastal inundation and shoreline and dune erosion, requiring a detailed understanding of their evolution in nearshore regions and interaction with shorelines. While their generation and dissipation mech…
View article: Wave‐Driven Hydrodynamic Processes Over Fringing Reefs With Varying Slopes, Depths, and Roughness: Implications for Coastal Protection
Wave‐Driven Hydrodynamic Processes Over Fringing Reefs With Varying Slopes, Depths, and Roughness: Implications for Coastal Protection Open
Wave breaking on the steep fore‐reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea‐swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea‐swel…
View article: Measuring a Rogue? An Investigation into an Apparent Giant Wave
Measuring a Rogue? An Investigation into an Apparent Giant Wave Open
An apparent giant wave event having a maximum trough-to-crest height of 21 m and a maximum zero-upcrossing period of 27 s was recorded by a wave buoy at a nearshore location off the southwestern coast of Australia. It appears as a group of…