W. C. O’Reilly
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View article: Spectral Refraction Modeling of Waves Around the Steep Reef at Palau
Spectral Refraction Modeling of Waves Around the Steep Reef at Palau Open
Western Pacific islands, such as Palau, are susceptible to wave‐driven inundation due to low land elevations and limited space for coastal retreat. Assessing the impacts of extreme wave events on these low‐lying islands requires regional n…
View article: Subaerial Profiles at Two Beaches: Equilibrium and Machine Learning
Subaerial Profiles at Two Beaches: Equilibrium and Machine Learning Open
Shoreline position (e.g., beach width) is a critical component of flooding and overtopping forecasts but difficult to predict accurately. We model beach width changes with a supervised machine learning (ML) approach informed by equilibrium…
View article: Predicting Shoreline Changes Along the California Coast Using Deep Learning Applied to Satellite Observations
Predicting Shoreline Changes Along the California Coast Using Deep Learning Applied to Satellite Observations Open
Understanding and predicting changes in shoreline location are critical for coastal planners. In situ monitoring is accurate but not widely available. Satellite observations of shorelines have global coverage, but their accuracy and predic…
View article: Rising Sea Levels and the Increase of Shoreline Wave Energy at American Samoa
Rising Sea Levels and the Increase of Shoreline Wave Energy at American Samoa Open
American Samoa is experiencing rapid relative sea level rise due to increases in global sea level and significant post-2009 earthquake land subsidence, endangering homes and critical infrastructure. Wave and water-level observations collec…
View article: Rising Sea Levels and the Increase of Shoreline Wave Energy at American Samoa
Rising Sea Levels and the Increase of Shoreline Wave Energy at American Samoa Open
American Samoa is experiencing rapid relative sea level rise due to increases in global sea level and significant post-2009 earthquake land subsidence, endangering homes and critical infrastructure. Wave and water-level observations collec…
View article: A Climatic Sand Management Model for Cardiff State Beach, CA
A Climatic Sand Management Model for Cardiff State Beach, CA Open
An empirically based sediment budget model is developed for Cardiff State Beach CA to assess management strategies to maintain beach width subject to mean sea level rise (MSLR) and potentially more frequent El Niño storms. Two decades (200…
View article: Alongshore variability of a southern California beach, before and after nourishment
Alongshore variability of a southern California beach, before and after nourishment Open
A moderate-size (344,000 m3) subaerial beach nourishment was placed in 2012 in front of flood-prone homes at Imperial Beach, California. The subaerially persistent coarser-than-native nourishment sand spread alongshore over a ∼4 km span. B…
View article: An early warning system for wave-driven coastal flooding at Imperial Beach, CA
An early warning system for wave-driven coastal flooding at Imperial Beach, CA Open
Waves overtop berms and seawalls along the shoreline of Imperial Beach (IB), CA when energetic winter swell and high tide coincide. These intermittent, few-hour long events flood low-lying areas and pose a growing inundation risk as sea le…
View article: Three years of weekly observations of coastal cliff erosion by waves and rainfall
Three years of weekly observations of coastal cliff erosion by waves and rainfall Open
Erosion of a 2.5 km-long sedimentary coastal cliff by waves and rainfall is explored with three years of weekly observations. A truck-mounted lidar resolved the fronting beach and convoluted surface of the ~10–25 m high cliffs. Volumes of …
View article: Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up
Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up Open
Storm wave run-up causes beach erosion, wave overtopping, and street flooding. Extreme runup estimates may be improved, relative to predictions from general empirical formulae with default parameter values, by using historical storm waves …
View article: Regional Swell Transformation by Backward Ray Tracing and SWAN
Regional Swell Transformation by Backward Ray Tracing and SWAN Open
Beach erosion and wave-induced flooding models are often initialized in O(10)-m depth, seaward of the surfzone, with wave conditions estimated from regional nonlinear spectral wave models [e.g., Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)]. These mo…
View article: Southern California Coastal Response to the 2015–2016 El Niño
Southern California Coastal Response to the 2015–2016 El Niño Open
Widespread erosion associated with energetic waves of the strong 2015–2016 El Niño on the U.S. West Coast has been reported widely. However, Southern California was often sheltered from the northerly approach direction of the offshore wave…
View article: Assimilating Global Wave Model Predictions and Deep-Water Wave Observations in Nearshore Swell Predictions
Assimilating Global Wave Model Predictions and Deep-Water Wave Observations in Nearshore Swell Predictions Open
Nearshore wave predictions with high resolution in space and time are needed for boating safety, to assess flood risk, and to support nearshore processes research. This study presents methods for improving regional nearshore predictions of…
View article: The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system
The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system Open
A decade-long effort to estimate nearshore (20 m depth) wave conditions based on offshore buoy observations along the California coast is described. Offshore, deep water directional wave buoys are used to initialize a non-stationary, linea…
View article: Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium
Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium Open
An equilibrium framework is used to describe the evolution of the cross‐shore profile of five beaches (medium grain size sand) in southern California. Elevations were observed quarterly on cross‐shore transects extending from the back beac…